How to Make a Basic Cushion Cover
It's amazing what a couple of simple throw cushions can do for a room. They're perfect for adding a pop of colour to an otherwise neutral décor or adding bold pattern to amp up a basic, boring space. As quilters we are always exposed to wonderful pattern and colour every time we wander into a bricks and mortar quilt/fabric store or shop at our favourite one online. We can choose to either highlight a large-scale print or make a patchwork cover to show our mad skills.
My daughter, Kate, and her partner, Nick, recently purchased a navy slipcover for their sofa. They complained that the existing cushions felt like burlap so they wanted something more comfortable and asked if I could make softer cushion covers to coordinate with the new slipcover. I found this great, inexpensive upholstery fabric with a wonderful Ikat inspired print that went well with the navy.
***scroll to the bottom for a printable PDF
figure 1
The first order of business is to determine the cut size for the front of the cushion cover. For demonstration purposes here the pillow insert is 18” square. When doing anything regarding upholstery I use ½” seam allowances because the fabric is usually a little heavier or denser. I do like the pillow form to fill the cover well so I usually only add ½” to the measurements instead of a full inch. So, the finished cut size for the front is 18 ½” finishing at 17 ½” once seam allowances are sewn.
If there is a motif in the fabric that needs to be centred and if matching cushions are being made, cut one 18 ½” square centering the design and then pin it in place it on top of the second one with the design matching and cut around the edges of the top one. Draw an arrow with chalk on both fronts marking the design if it is directional (figure 1). This comes into play again later on when installing the zipper at the bottom rear of the cushion cover.
I do realize that it's a very personal pet peeve, but I really hate it when cushions have super pointy corners that “wing” out...it's like the pillow form doesn't fill the cover properly. The corner technique I show in this tutorial is not my own, but I unfortunately can't give proper credit for it because it comes from an old 1950's upholstery book that I borrowed from the library a gazillion years ago.
Keep the fronts pinned together (if making a pair). At each corner measure in ½” and mark with a pencil or Frixion marker (figure 2). From each corner also measure 4 ½” along each edge and mark (figure 3). Trim each corner from the point at the corner to the markings on the edges (figure 4). I know the shape looks super weird, but trust me...it'll all work out and your completed cushions will indeed look square! Set the fronts aside until later.
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I prefer to make the back sections slightly larger (strictly in case I mess up with my measurements somehow!) then trim according to the front after they're sewn together. I also prefer a slightly longer nylon zipper (22” here) because it allows the zipper pull to be well out of the way when sewing the sections together and it's easily trimmed to size later.
For one cushion cut one piece 19” W x 5” L (press ½” to the wrong side on the long edge) and cut one piece 19” W x 19” L (press 1 ½” to the wrong side) for the back (figure 5). I did not finish the pressed edges, but if you have a serger or want to finish the edges so they don’t fray feel free. Due to limited fabric the backing fabric design was not matched between the 2 pieces. And I didn't really worry about it because it was the back anyway. If you're OCD that way, go for it and do your matching.
Attach the zipper foot to the machine and move the needle to the right (check your manual or my scant ¼” tutorial for how to do that) so it snugs up to the edge of the fabric and doesn't hit the zipper teeth. If necessary, pin in a couple of spots at the beginning until it's anchored (figure 6) or you may choose to use Wash Away Wonder Tape shown in the next step. You'll notice that there's a great woven line on the zipper tape that you can use as a guide (figure 7). I line up the edge of the fabric to that line and then stitch along the fold of the fabric (figure 8). This allows enough room for the zipper tab to slide easily along without hitting the fabric.
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Apply the Wash Away Wonder Tape to the raw edge (the one pressed to the back from figure 5) of the other back fabric as shown (figure 9), remove the paper and finger press the top edge of the zipper face down to that raw edge (figure 10). The glue from the tape will hold the zipper in place until it's stitched down. Stitch from the zipper side so you can follow along the woven line for a nice straight line of stitching (figure 11).
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The zipper is now hidden under the placket (figure 12). At the end with the zipper stop stitch back and forth a couple of times within the seam allowance (figure 13). At the opening end of the zipper make sure the zipper is open and the tab is not extended past the end before stitching back and forth within that seam allowance (figures 14 & 15). You want to be able to access the zipper opening...ask me how I know!
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With the zipper open at least halfway, place the back zipper section right side up on the table in front of you with the zipper area at the bottom. With right sides together place the cushion front on top with bottom edges lining up together...but remember...if you have a directional fabric be sure that the arrow is pointing towards the top (figure 16).
Pin the layers together and stitch all the way around with a ½” seam allowance. Stop a couple of stitches from each corner, pivot and take 2 stitches diagonally across the corner before continuing down the next side (figure 17). Trim the corner seam allowances (figure 18) to reduce bulk.
My Janome open toe presser foot is ⅜” from the right outside edge of the foot to the needle so I used that, but eyeballed the remaining ⅛”…I know, not very technical, but I have a good eye! The back was then trimmed even with the front before finishing the seam allowance. You can also opt to trim first and then use the ½” seam marking on the bed of your machine.
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When finishing seam allowances it's really important to use the proper presser foot. I'm sure many of you have had issues with zigzag or finishing stitches “curling” to the underside. That happens when the stitches are not supported. In a case like that it's helpful to use an overcasting foot. The overcasting foot has stitch “fingers”, little metal bars, that support the fabric while the stitches are being made. Mine is an 'M' foot for the Janome 6700, and the stitch is mode 2 stitch #013 (figures 19 & 20). Check your machine's manual to see if you have a similar foot and stitch.
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Now all you have to do is turn the cover right side out, give it a finishing press, insert the pillow form, and stand back to admire your work. Kinda like potato chips…you probably won’t be able to stop at just one (or a set of two). Have fun!